Climbing a sea stack can feel like being transported into another realm where the forces of nature and time are ever present and mind boggling. They offer unique, wild and adventurous challenges into sanctuaries that can only be reached by those with the pre-requisite nerve and skills, and offer vantage points that are off limits to most.
As with any worthwhile challenge you need to do a bit (or a lot) of homework to make it happen. This guide is intended to help anyone aspiring to climb a sea stack, and in particular, the Great Scottish Sea Stacks. It’s full of tips and suggestions which should help you plan a trip and hopefully ‘stack’ (oh yes… pun intended) the odds of success in your favour.
The are hundreds of sea stacks dotted around the UK’s rugged coastline. They are, by definition, separated from the main coastline. In most cases they would have been part of the main coastal cliffs but became isolated through historical rockfall (usually the result of a collapsing sea arch).
A true sea stack should, in theory, be surrounded by water (at least at high tide) otherwise they are merely a ‘needle’, ‘pinnacle’ or ‘false stack’. They are often found in remote, wild and beautiful locations, exposed to the elements and home to wild sea birds and marine life. These environments are fragile ecosystems and their inhabitants, both flora and fauna, deserve to be respected. Climbing on them should be done with the upmost care and minimal disturbance.
A puffin on top of the Old Man of Hoy.
The classic ‘big three’ Scottish Sea Stacks are ‘The Old Man of Stoer’, ‘Am Buachaille’ and ‘The Old Man of Hoy’.
The first two lie in the county of Sutherland, the most northwesterly in mainland Scotland. The biggest, ‘The Old Man of Hoy’ lies on the island of Hoy, part of the Orkney archipelago, and is arguably not a sea stack as it is connected to the island.
Most climbers seeking to climb the classic Scottish Sea Stacks will opt for one of the ‘original’ routes – so called because they were the routes taken by the first ascent party and usually offer the easiest or most obvious way up. All three can be climbed at a modest grade with the bulk of the climbing somewhere between Severe and VS. The Old Man of Hoy is the exception, with one pitch of E1 5b.
These climbs shouldn’t be underestimated. It’s well worth spending time building confidence in a sea cliff environment before venturing onto a sea stack, making sure you’re comfortable climbing at the grade of the route you choose. Having a grade or two ‘in-hand’ (i.e operating above the standard of the climb you choose) will make the experience a lot less stressful.
Routes on sea stacks can be loose and dirty places, and humidity can make the rock feel slippery. Expect ledges adorned with sea birds and their guano (poo) and Fulmars, who have a habit of vomiting on you when startled… talk to them as you approach ledges… you never know, you might make a friend and avoid being covered. It’s always worth avoiding peak nesting times and noting any restrictions.
Always check the weather and local tide times. Sea stacks that require a short swim to access at low tide could require a much longer swim a few hours later, potentially leaving you stranded if the sea is rough.
Wind speed and direction, and sea state are important considerations. Poor rope management, especially when descending in windy conditions, could lead to big problems. Knowing how set up a retrievable abseil and abseil with a prusik is essential.
The view of Am Buachaille on the approach (June 2021).
The sea stacks can be done as a big expedition in one trip, or individually. If climbing all three you have two options: Start with the Old Man of Hoy and finish on the Old Man of Stoer or the other way around. Below are a few tips and considerations for each.
It’s hard to have a favourite as they are very different in character, but the rock quality on The Old Man of Stoer (Torridonian Sandstone) is undoubtedly the best of the trio. A fixed rope is sometimes in place to cross the narrow channel to access Stoer, but don’t relay on it being there. If there’s no rope, you can either swim there and back, or set up a Tyrolean traverse to get your second and climbing gear across nice and dry.
A 50m semi-static rope threaded through the fixed gear at the base of the stack and doubled back does this nicely, and allows you to tension the rope on the landward side meaning no one has to swim back at the end and your tyrolean rope can be retrieved with ease.
You’ll be glad to know the initial traverse left to access the ledges at the start of the ordinary route feels as hard as anything on the route itself.
Although the climbing on Am Buachaille is probably the easiest of all three stacks, it is undoubtedly the most serious.
A remote setting, a long approach that’s cut off at high tide, a swim for everyone (no Tyrolean traverse here) and chossy rock make for a memorable experience.
The setting is stunning with vast views overlooking Sandwood Bay. Am Buachaille sits a good way out on a tidal platform and is very exposed to the wind from all directions. Pulling the ropes down the last time I climbed it, the free end flew out perpendicular to the stack for a full 60 metres like a giant skinny flag (in hindsight I wouldn’t climb it again in such windy conditions, but it can be a difficult call to make as it was perfectly calm on top of the cliffs on the mainland and approach).
Dry bags are essential to get your gear and clothing across dry, and a wetsuit might be handy if it’s cold.
Crossing over the channel to the base of The Old Man of Stoer (June 2021).
The big one! At 137 metres The Old Man of Hoy is the highest sea stack in the UK.
Just getting there is an adventure, and there are a few options for travel. It’s possible to avoid taking a car onto Orkney, but plan food and provisions carefully as there aren’t any shops or amenities in Rackwick, your ‘basecamp’.
You can either take the more eco-friendy North Link ferry from Scrabster (pretty much the most northerly point in mainland Scotland – John o’ Groats is a few miles away) to Stromness, or fly to Kirkwall. Both are on ‘mainland’ Orkney (not to be confused with mainland Scotland!).
A good car-free option is taking the last ferry of the day from Scrabster to Stromness, where there is accommodation, then the first passenger ferry the following morning from the nearby (within walking distance) ferry terminal to Moaness on Hoy. You’ll need to book a taxi with Mr Clark (01856 791315) to get down to Rackwick Bay on the West of the island.
Burnmouth Bothy is a fantastic and recently refurbished bothy on the beach at Rackwick, with ample space to camp outside. There’s a toilet and running water that can be boiled or purified via other means.
The newly refurbished Burnmouth Bothy (June 2026).
With an early start and good conditions, it’s possible to travel to Hoy, climb, and get back onto mainland Scotland the same evening but this is a gamble and building in at least one contingency day for poor weather is a good idea.
Taking your vehicle gives more flexibility. It’s a 20-30 minute drive across Orkney Mainland to Houton port, where the car ferry crosses to Longhope at the southern end of Hoy. The drive to Rackwick Bay is then around 30 minutes.
The walk from Rackwick to The Old Man of Hoy takes around 40 minutes and what a sight it is when you get there… Intimidating and compelling in equal measure!
The start of the descent down to its base is accessed via a short gully 100m to the North of the viewing promontory. Take care going down as it is very steep, exposed and slippery in places. Once at the base, find a flattish area among the boulders which once formed a leg or arch that’s now collapsed. You might have seen the Victorian era painting of the stack that illustrates the leg before its collapse. Link here.
The start of the second pitch involves a 5 metre down-climb and traverse right across sandy ledges to access the main ‘coffin’ crack system. It’s far better to belay at the end of the traverse below the crack than continuing as it was traditionally done. This makes rope work and communication much easier.
The crack above leading into and out of the Coffin is well protected with large cams (BD Camalot sizes 3-5).
Above this, the climbing eases significantly with a brilliant last pitch which leads onto the top.
In 2024, The Old Man of Hoy had a good clean up of old abseil tat and new titanium belay/abseil stations installed. The descent requires around 4 abseils which need to be well managed to avoid disturbing sea birds, dislodging loose rock, or risking the ropes blowing around excessively and getting snagged. Having the ropes stacked in a bag as the first climber descends is a good way to do this.
The final, free hanging abseil from the top of the ‘Coffin’ pitch requires 60m ropes to make it all the way to the ground.
Climbing the final pitch onto the top of The Old Man of Hoy.
You’l need a typical rack with an emphasis on large wires and cams, including some doubled up sizes (BD Camalot size 0.75 to 5 or equivalent). Don’t bother with small sizes as you don’t need them. You’ll also need a small climbing pack with snacks, a drink and spare layers – don’t try and carry it leading the coffin pitch… leave it with your second to deal with! As the stacks are dirty and you risk contact with fulmar vomit and guano, you might not want to wear your favourite clothes.
If you’d like to do the stack (or three) of a lifetime in the safest and most stress-free way, I run bespoke trips with individuals or pairs between June and September.
I love creating experiences that really support and develop climbers and help them reach their goals, whether that’s an expedition to try and send all three, or a longer plan including confidence-building trad days in the Lake District or on sea cliffs beforehand. Get in touch, and we can chat.
On the descent of the Old Man of Hoy.
